January 12, 2012

Hakkasan Miami

A heavenly chef has landed on the shores of Miami Beach from the realm of Michelin stars and the bright lights of fashion, film, and music. Hakkasan Miami, located in the chic Fontainebleau hotel, is indeed a celestial experience.

Executive Chef Ooi Soon Lok serves opulent Cantonese cuisine against a sensual backdrop of chinoiserie design. The teak walls have been artistically carved to allow glimpses of the monied clientele perched at the cobalt blue bar. As you walk into this glamourous oriental labyrinth, each turn reveals a new cove of seduction. We slink into our comfortable turquoise booth, and the lamp dangling over our table uses light and shadow to create a discreet enclave from our neighbors.

We ordered their signature cocktail, ‘the Hakka’ to invigorate our impatient palates–an intriguing blend of vodka, Kubota sake, lychee juice, lime, coconut and fresh passion fruit. In due time, the dim sum platter ($26) appeared in a basket of glorious little pillows with silken skin and juicy interiors packing bold and exotic flavours. Each tiny piece of sesame prawn, scallop and wild mushroom was readable to the taste buds rather than folded into an indiscriminate whole.

Shortly after came expertly-cooked shredded beef with tangerine peel served beside steaming pancakes ($24), an aromatic sweet and savory contrast with a hint of spice. The char-grilled Sha Cha sea bass ($38) had an initially dominant smoked barbecue crust, overlaying the tender fish with a swing of sweetness. The finely cut vegetable fried rice ($10) was perfectly seasoned and not overly lubricated with grease. Desserts were beyond decadent. Settling on the white chocolate mousse with passion fruit ice cream ($12) was a rewarding decision. This velvet cream layered above a crackling, buttery crust, was, in a word, ambrosial.

As the night rolled on the music was inappropriately turned up to nightclub level, the one disappointment of the evening. The service was impeccable and helpful and above all, professional in every respect.

Hakkasan Miami’s divine cuisine and transcendent ambience allow the patron to escape into an imperial Chinese retreat.